Hauraki Rail Trail - Just Us
To give you a little heads up on what our itinerary was before you dive into my story, here is a short itinerary of our two days:
Day 1:
Drive Auckland to Paeroa
Pick Up Hire Bikes - Adventure Bike Hire
Cycle Hauraki Rail Trail - Paeroa to Te Aroha (23km one way)
Booked kayak trip with Adventure Te Aroha
Cycle back to Paeroa (23km - option to shuttle back - for a fee - check with providers directly)
Check into Pedlars Motel Paeroa
Dinner at Kumars Something Special
Day 2:
Check out of Pedlars Motel
Coffee at The Refinery Paeroa
Cycle Hauraki Rail Trail - Krangahake Gorge from Paeroa to Waihi (24km one way)
Walk Windows Trail (1 hour walk return)
Lunch at The Falls Retreat (bookings suggested during weekends and summer)
Cycle back to Paeroa (14km)
Drop off bikes and drive back to Auckland
Over the Christmas break whilst holidaying with the family (about the only time we get to read magazines) my hubby and I both picked up and read the latest Life & Leisure magazine and it had a gorgeous article on The Falls Retreat bistro which is situated half way along the Hauraki Rail Trail in Waikino, between Paeroa and Waihi. The seed had been sown...
Stylish and happy couple
Fast forward a couple weeks and the Nadia magazine ran an article of biking the Hauraki Rail Trail. And low and behold at the bottom of our magazine pile at home was a copy of the AA Traveller Bike Trails we must have picked up along the way somewhere. Anyway, over a couple of beers and a sunny afternoon my husband started to hatch a plan to explore the Hauraki Rail Trail for the weekend, just us!
I have to admit that being Aucklanders this region hadn't really appeared on our must stop list. Usually we have been on our way to the Coromandel or Rotorua, not really lingering, so we did the research and looked into options for accommodation and things to do and see along the way. Hubby sent me emails and links for my review and approval. And we had the outline of a plan...
What appealed to us both is that Paeroa is a small town less than two hours drive from our West Auckland home, easily done for the weekend. And as we had discovered is the 'hub' for the Hauraki Rail Trail, with three routes leading off from here. One hitch, we haven't bought bikes yet. But turns out we could easily find a bike hire place in the centre of Paeroa. So, we booked a couple of bikes. Hubby found Pedlars Motel around the corner from the bike hire and right on the start of the trail, perfect! We then planned our trip around a kayak trip on the first day in Te Aroha and lunch at that gorgeous restaurant that triggered this trip, The Falls Retreat.
All set with Grandma taking the kids for the night we were packed and ready for an early morning start. We drove out of Auckland and hit Paeroa by 9am and went straight to the Pedlars Motel. Whilst we were (very) early for check in they were very accommodating and happy for us to leave our car parked at the motel while we were out for the day. We got ourselves sorted and across to Adventure Bike Hire to pick up our bikes. We were given the option of standard mountain bikes or comfort bikes. We picked mountain bikes for the relative speed. Noted that they also had electric bikes, kids bikes and even tag-alongs for those rug rats that can't cycle. We were sent off happy with our bikes and helmets and it was but a few metres to the start of the trail.
Day 1:
Iron works by a local artist at the Te Aroha head of the Hauraki Rail Trail
For our first day we'd decided to cycle the 23kms to Te Aroha (one way). We'd been warned that it was fairly 'exposed' and being a rail trail it was indeed. It was a pretty cycle out of Paeroa and onto the trail itself. But if we're honest we found after this the trail to be fairly straight and hot. There were sweet bridges over streams for a little break but it did become a little relentless and I definitely was looking forward to arriving in Te Aroha. On one of these little bridges we had a chat to what turned out to be a local couple out for a morning ride. They came with high recommendations for The Old Forge, a newly built cafe out of Te Aroha. It sounded ideal for our lunch stop!
Long stretches Paeroa to Te Aroha - Hauraki Rail Trail
We flew on to Te Aroha, the trail didn't really encourage us to linger. A quick admiring ride through Te Aroha town and surrounds, we noted where our kayak trip was leaving from at Adventure Te Aroha and we pushed on another 6km out of town to The Old Forge. A beautiful, smooth new section of the trail led us along the road side and through the green of the Kaimai valley, think long grassy meadows filled with bucolic cows backed by the steep ascent of the Kaimai Ranges. I was getting very thirsty and hungry by this point, keen for lunch rather than admiring the scenery. However, rookie mistake... being a public holiday, The Old Forge was closed! We hadn't thought to check after the recommendation... It looked great from the outside... we'll have to try it another time!
Around we turned and a quick snack to garner some strength we cycled back to Te Aroha proper for lunch. We did a quick scout around and after trying one place that was thronging with people (and a 45 minute wait for food) we decided to take it back to basics and dived into one of the bakeries. We took the bulk standard kiwi pie to the very cute historic domain and sat under a tree to restore our energy. Whilst not glamorous, we were sated and happy for the rest. The Te Aroha Domain is a lovely historic remnant of the town when it was a booming tourist destination and still boasts bowling greens, a museum, tea rooms (we discovered too late) and even a mineral bathing house... as well as sweet, well tended flower gardens.
It wasn't long before we were due at Adventure Te Aroha for our kayak down the river. We had a glorious warm late summer day for it and I was looking forward to sitting still after our cycle. We arrived at the small set up and Kelvin, the owner/operator, met us with a big smile and that great Kiwi attitude. The deal was that Kelvin would take us on a small 'tour' of the region and then drop us (with one other kayaker; a woman and her dog) up stream for a gentle drift downstream back into Te Aroha. No rapids here and very little paddling required!
Kelvin is great, full of stories and information about Te Aroha, the past, the present, and even a little about the regions tourist plans for the future. He's a born and bred local with a passion for the area that is infectious. Te Aroha still maintains some of it's historic glory, at one point being the original tourist destination of the area with hot springs and the worlds only hot soda water. And the original 'Paeroa and Lemon' drink being made here for almost a century.
Kelvin went on to talk about the Maori history and the fact that Te Aroha literally means 'Love' for the love the chief felt for his home. And touching on the gold rush era and mining remnants that are scattered throughout the area.
Once we reached our drop off area we were thoroughly entranced with the region and ready to set up our own tourist operation??! But the cool of the river was enticing and into the water we went, with instructions to keep away from the branches and trees and to sit back and relax!
The very calm and cool waters of the Waihou River, Te Aroha
And wow! That we did... it was the step out of the frantic-ness that is life that we both needed. To feel the late summer sun on our faces and the cool of the river water as we floated with our feet dipped in. Perfect! I spent a good portion of the time watching a bee rest itself on the kayak. Mindfulness at it's best! Nowhere to be, nothing to do and only the now to see. There is not much civilization around for most of the drift, which is perfect, away from noise and distraction. Only the Kaimai ranges and blue sky to gaze upon. For an hour and a half just us, the river and quiet. Only the odd duck quacking loudly as we encroached on their space, just to keep things interesting.
As we came into Te Aroha we could see Kelvin happily awaiting our arrival and ready to pull us out of the water. My legs weren't too happy with getting out. They ached and the thought of our 23km cycle back to Paeroa wasn't so appealing! But into the afternoon sun we were ready to cycle. Kelvin had offered a shuttle back to Paeroa (for a small fee), but we wanted to complete the cycle and do the whole trip. Make a day of it. We did vow we would be back to take the kids on the kayak trip - they would adore it as much as us.
What a haul back! I was a bit saddle sore and more than a little pink around the edges from a full day in the sun. But the prospect of a shower, a cold beer and dinner kept me moving. Let's just say we made it back in record time! We cycled straight back to Pedlars Motel and the helpful man behind the desk popped our bikes away safely for the night. And let us into our room.
Pedlars Motel is brand spanking new and I can only imagine built for the likes of us. Those that are cycling the area. The rooms are comfortable and new. Beds big and inviting after a long day cycling. But definitely lacks any outdoor environment and whilst they have comfortable family rooms, we didn't think would be ideal with kids.
We showered and drank a lovely cold beer, but as it was already 6ish and we were tired we quikcly headed into Paeroa for dinner. Having spotted Kumars Something Special Indian restaurant on our way in. And having done our research (to check it was open and worth a stop) we bought a bottle of wine and headed over. We weren't disappointed. It had all the colour and glitz we expect with our naan and saag paneer!! Filling our tired tummies with all the delicious carbs and overwhelming our brains with the flashing lights and bright walls we were well ready for that big comfy bed and our travels the next day.
The dark and quiet of Pedlars Motel did the trick and we woke up ready to get going for our next destination. This time through the Krangahake Gorge from Paeroa to Waihi. And today we'd booked our lunch at The Falls Retreat (roughly half way along). So it was up and atom to get as far as we could to Waihi before we had to turn around and come back for lunch.
Can't visit Paeroa without the 'Famous in NZ' photo
Day 2:
We packed up the car and asked to leave it at the motel for us to head back to Auckland later that day. Then 'saddled' up! Youch! I was very sore... so negotiated with the hubby to get me a coffee at The Refinery before heading out. We weren't disappointed, The Refinery is a gloriously disheveled old building just behind the main road of Paeroa with courtyard, retro furniture and yummy food. We indulged in a sweet treat and coffee to go with my ibprofen (for my aching butt). And then headed onto the trail. Not before noting that they also had accommodation at the back of the building with a garden...
The sweet treats at The Refinery, Paeroa
We'd expected this to be the more beautiful of the trails, and therefore the busier of them. And we were right on the money. Almost immediately it was obvious that this was going to be a lovely ride. Running through the Krangahake Gorge and along the Ohinemuri River most of the way it weaves and undulates in a very gentle manner, often shaded by trees. Thankfully after a couple of kilometres my body adjusted (or the pain killers kicked in!) and I could relax into the ride. Across the river and up through the old train tunnel which is 1km long and a cool experience in it's own right. We stopped at the Windows Track and parked our bikes for a walk along to the old gold mining ruins and tunnels with views up the river and a loop track to take us back around. Taking an hour return is a nice detour from the riding.
We were back on our bikes and cycling, we passed by what would be our lunch stop and a small train station at Waikino (now only really a tourist train from Waihi) and rode further up the lovely trail, hugging the river and sandwiched next to the farm land, cows, hay bales the whole nine yards for us city folk. We were conscious of the time, not wanting to be late for lunch so cut our losses about 3km out of Waihi and turned around. We spent 10 minutes with our feet in the cool of the river and cycled back to Waikino and our lunch stop. What we weren't ready for was the hill from the trail to The Falls Retreat! After feeling like we were caning it along the trail the steep incline was intense. And I for one had to get off and push... but we knew lunch was at the top!
We came into The Falls Retreat and were immediately enchanted with the building, big trees and the lovely garden. A wonderful stop for families with a playground and space for kids. There were many cars and bikes parked so we were pleased we'd booked. They also have accommodation available which look to be delightful cottages nestled in the forest.
Lunch at The Falls Bistro
Lunch was a beautifully thought out platter and seafood pizza, with a bottle of rose. Topped off with a coffee, another ibprofen and dessert we were well placed for the 15km cycle back to the car. Thankfully, this way along the trail and back to Paeroa is a very gentle downhill. Which is just right for saddle sore bodies. The rose, pain killer and coffee did the trick and I was flying this last section! Wind whipping my hair and sun keeping me warm.
Back to Paeroa, we dropped off the bikes and walked back to our car. We were back home with the kids by early evening! Amazing what you can pack into two days when you make the time. We vowed we would take the kids back, with some adjustments to the weekend. Definitely not suggesting 100kms in two days would be ideal for our 7 & 9 year olds! But they would love the kayaking and the Krangahake Gorge.
For an area not far from Auckland that I haven't explored in all my time this was a wonderful way to slow us down, see what is right here in our backyard and get excited about more travels. And we have since taken the kids back... I'll write about that one soon.
Jess x
If you want to contact any of the places we visited please see below, or feel free to contact me with any queries:
Hauraki Rail Trail - www.haurakirailtrail.co.nz
Adventure Te Aroha - www.adventuretearoha.com
Pedlars Motel Paeroa - www.pedlarsmotel.nz
Kumars Something Special - www.facebook.com/kumarssomethingspecial02
Adventure Bike Hire - www.adventurebikehire.co.nz
The Falls Retreat - www.fallsretreat.co.nz
The Refinery Paeroa - the-refinery.co.nz